Although the primary religion of Mexico is Catholicism (89%), it’s amazing how many other churches, religious and spiritual assemblies are available in the Lake Chapala area to serve both the gringo and Mexican populations. This is a major draw to the Lakeside area for folks whose lives north of the border are enhanced by their religious communities.
Most church groups here have an extended social life besides their services. They sponsor potlucks, yard sales, lectures, entertainment venues and other celebrations. If you can’t find your church here, you might try Guadalajara which is only an hour’s drive away.
My thanks go to Focus on Mexico for providing a current list of churches and religious venues in the Lake Chapala area:
Abundant Life Assembly of God
140 Carretera Chapala-Jocotepec, San Antonio phone: 01 (387) 766-5615 / (376) 766-3173 All Saints Lutheran Church Worship
Service 11:00 a.m.
4600 Avenida Tepeyac, Guad.
(01-333) 121-6741
Center for Spiritual Living Celebration Service
5:00 p.m. Friday
Nicolas Bravo #17, Ajijic
(376) 766-0920 Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints
Services in English and Spanish
10:00 a.m.
Riberas del Pilar
(376) 765-7067 Church of the Holy Spirit
Services Sunday 10:00 a.m. Albaro Obregon #119, Chapala
(376) 765-4210
Grace Baptist Church 5th
Sunday Evening service – 6:00 p.m.
Pedro Buzeta No. 970, Guadalajara
(013) 641-1685
Lake Chapala Baptist Church
The People’s Church
Mid-Weed service, 9:30 a.m.
Worship service, 10:45 a.m.
Midweek Bible Study Wednesday 10 a.m.
Sunday School 10 /Worship Sunday 11
#147 Sta. Margarita, Riberas del Pilar
(376) 765-2925 Lake Chapala-Ajijic Jewish Congregation Sta. Margarita #113, Riberas del Pilar
Diverse community serving Lakeside
Weekly Sabbath evening, morning services & Torah Study
(376) 765-6968 Lake Chapala Unitarian Universalist Fellowship Sta. Margarita #113 (SW corner of Santa Clara)
Riberas del Pilar.Sunday Service 10:30 a.m.
(376) 766-1119 Little Chapel by the Lake: Non-Denominational
Chula Vista, East of the Fire Station
Worship Service: Sunday, 11 a.m. (387)761-0440 Lakeside Fellowship
Sun worship 11:00 a.m.
Javier Mina #49, Ajijic
(376) 766-0795 Lakeside Presbyterian Church
Worship – Sunday 10:00 a.m.
Bible Study – Friday 10:00 a.m.
Hidalgo 231A, Carr. Chapapa/Joco, Riberas del Pilar
(376) 766-1238, or (376) 766-0616
Open Circle
Sunday, 10:00-11:30 a.m. In the back patio of the Lake Chapala Society
Coffee and sandwiches from 10:00-10:30 a.m.
Non-religious, spiritual group with speakers
discussing topics on mind, body and spirit.
San Andres Catholic Church Parroquia & M. Castellanos, Ajijic
English Mass Sunday 9 am
(376) 766-5233
St. Andrew’s Anglican Church
Holy Eucharist Sundays 10
San Lucas #19, Riberas del Pilar
Church: (376) 765-3926/Rectory: (376) 766-2665
Open from 9 – 12 daily
Seventh Day Adventist
Maderia #12 Rancho del Oro
Meeting: 9:15a.m. – 12:00 noon
Potluck after meeting
During hundreds of interviews, many expats have told me that they found instant communities through their churches. Most find those communities through their neighborhoods, hobbies, interests and volunteer work. Still others find them in the several 12-step program groups which meet regularly at Lakeside.
What a trip! Three hundred expats and a handful of Mexicans from the community turned up at the Lake Chapala Society in Ajijic for the 45thanniversary of Woodstock. Who knew there were still so many tie-dyed clothes in the depths of our closets.
A local band belted out sounds from 1969 with renditions from The Grateful Dead, Jimi Hendrix, Santana, Creedence Clearwater Revival, and Janis Joplin among others.
Attendees enjoyed hamburgers and hot dogs, along with potato salad and cole slaw. Santo Cayote, an upscale Guadalajara restaurant provided mango margaritas and guests received complimentary magic brownies along with an opportunity to purchase wine, beer, soft drinks or Electric Kool-Aid.
The majority of the participants got into the spirit with wigs, gaudy jewelry, real and fake tattoos and outlandish tie-dyed costumes. Dancing lasted until early evening. Alas, no marijuana, bras or naked people were discovered during or after the party.
The Lake Chapala Society is believed to be unique in the world. Located only a block from the lake in Ajijic, it is a non-profit organization focused on promoting the exchange of education, heritage, and talents among the expat and Mexican communities. In addition, it contributes to the social enrichment and health of both its members and the Lakeside community.
Today, there are almost 3,000 LCS members from countries around the world, although most are from the United States and Canada. For nearly 60 years, the society has been helping both newcomers and old-timers—both full and part-time—to have a more enjoyable, healthy and stress-free life here at Lakeside.
The Society also assists the local Mexican community through English, computer and art classes. Through its fund-raising efforts, it offers an ongoing student aid program for bright Mexican college students who could not otherwise afford to continue their education. It houses what is believed to be the largest English library outside of English-speaking countries as well video and talking book libraries. There is also a Spanish library off-site at the Wilkes Center. The society is open six days a week from 10 to 2 p.m. and is staffed primarily by volunteers.
The present 1-1/2 acre site of the Lake Chapala Society was deeded in 1988 by Neill James in exchange for LCS caring for her during her remaining years. During the many succeeding administrations, the grounds have been meticulously landscaped, buildings have been updated and the Society can now handle groups as small as two and as large as several hundred.
The Lake Chapala Society monthly calendar (visit the site at www.lakechapalasociety.com) promotes the following categories of activities:
Health Services
Educational Services
Insurance and Legal Services
Fun and Games
Exercise Activities
Tickets and Sales
Information Desk
Service, Social and Support Groups
A quick scan through the calendar uncovers such diverse educational, health and social opportunities as:
Line Dancing
Yoga and Tai chi
12-Step Programs
TED Learning Seminars
Bridge, Mah Jong and Scrabble
Classes for iPad, Windows 8.1 and Android
Eye and ear testing
Skin cancer screening and blood pressure testing
Various community leaders and specialists hold seminars of vital information to the community at the society, and as you saw earlier in the article, there are myriad fund raisers and social opportunities during the year celebrating various holidays and events.
On the main patio, a small coffee shop serves a limited selection of beverage and food items where members can sit outside and enjoy the beautiful surroundings.
The Lake Chapala Society is considered the hub of expat and information activities and is extremely helpful in helping new residents become oriented. Be sure to visit it the next time you are here.
I first visited Ajijic in 1996 as part of International Living’s “Retire in Mexico” conference in Guadalajara. What was once a sleepy little fishing village located on Mexico’s largest lake, and discovered in the 1940s by only a handful of artists and writers (including D.H. Lawrence) is now reputedly the largest US/Canadian expat area in the world.
This is thanks, in part, to the feature articles in Time Magazine, AARP, The Wall Street Journal as well as newspaper features and TV specials. As the baby boomers near retirement age, they are looking for a place where they can get more bang for their precious bucks and live in comfort.
Located In central Mexico, just 45 miles south of Guadalajara, Lake Chapala is the largest lake in Mexico. It is 5,000 feet high and measures 55 miles long by 15 miles wide. Surrounded by mountains, its natural light and near perfect weather attract people from around the world. Several villages dot the north and south shores of Lake Chapala and it’s estimated that the population on the north shore of the lake is 90,000 with 10,000-15,000 full and part-time expats.
Think of the Ajijic area as having Mexico’s best five “C’s”: Climate, Cost of Living, Culture, Charm and Community:
Climate
The temperature averages 75° F during the year. We don’t need central heating in the winter or air conditioners in the summer; fans handle the warmer weather in April and May. Locals love the rainy season best. Typically we get thunder and lightning shows in the evening and it’s sunny during the day. Tradition has it that the rains will start six weeks after the rain birds (cicadas) begin their mating calls. Generally the season lasts from mid-June to late September. Then the dust is settled, the mountains turn verdant green and the flowers, trees and shrubs adorn our gardens with vivid colors.
Cost of Living
Just as it does north of the border, the cost of living continues to creep up annually. It’s as difficult to answer the cost of living question here as it is in Austin or San Francisco. It depends on your lifestyle. There are single American retirees who manage to live comfortably with only their social security.
Probably they don’t have pets or cars, don’t eat out a lot and their travel is limited. On the other hand, couples can live comfortably on $2,000 a month and, in fact, it’s hard to spend more than $5,000 per month as a couple regardless of your lifestyle. It’s more expensive to live in Ajijic than in Chapala and you can live on significantly less in Jocotepec or on the south shore.
We hire maids and gardeners for $3.00-$5.00 US/hour. Property taxes for a $300,000 home run about $125-150 US and most of us don’t opt for homeowners’ insurance because bricks and mortar don’t burn and we have no natural disasters here. Doctor visits range from $25 to $50 US and for those on a strict budget, IMMS (social medical insurance) runs about $350 US per year. Meals at the better restaurants average about $15-$25 and a glass of wine will set you back about $4.00.
Culture
Many of us agree that Lakeside living reminds us of life in the 50’s. Children play outside and ride their bikes to school, feeling completely safe. Neighbors watch out for each other. Extended families celebrate holidays together with picnics or potlucks. The Mexican value system is family first, church second, job third and possessions last. When a worker doesn’t show up as scheduled, it’s likely that a cousin’s girlfriend needed a ride into Guadalajara. That’s more important than the job.
You’d think they would call and explain why they won’t be able to work, but another interesting facet of the culture is that the Mexicans live in the moment and, in this moment, they don’t want to give you bad news. It’s the same when you ask directions. If they don’t know, they don’t want to disappoint you, so they’ll guess.
When Mexicans live in the moment they are happy, smiling and practically always greet us with a Buenos Dias or Buenos Tardes when they pass us by.
Charm
The villages here still sport cobblestone streets and provide a never-ending collage of contrasts. Watch one man cleaning his truck, while a few feet away, his amigo washes his horse. Enjoy the young man delivering firewood on a donkey as he talks into his cell phone. Celebrate the rainy season as the mountains turn from gold to emerald-Oz green almost overnight.
Along the main highway one can often see herds of goats, cattle or horses grazing on the grass. It’s not uncommon to pull over so a family on horseback can cross the street. Walk along the main street of Colon in Ajijic and enjoy the brightly painted art galleries, shops and businesses, many with colorful murals painted by talented local Mexican artists. Peek into open gates and be enchanted with the beautiful gardens and hacienda style homes.
Plan a night at the philharmonic and, the next day, listen to mariachis on the plaza with centuries-old folkloric dances. Enjoy the thermal baths in San Juan Cosala, visit one of the high-end spas for a day of relaxation or take a tour boat out to Scorpion Island.
Community
Like many others, I came here initially for the weather and the lower cost of living. But that’s not why so many of us have stayed.
The Lake Chapala Society (LCS) is situated on one and a half beautifully landscaped acres at #16 Calle 16 de Septiembre in Ajijic. Stroll the tropical grounds, enjoy the Koi ponds, peruse the community bulletin board, or stop for a cappuccino with friends. The English library on the grounds has 30,000 titles, a reference library as well as video, DVD and talking book rentals. The LCS has 3400 members representing 31 countries. The LCS also assists the local Mexican community with classes in computer technology, English, art, remedial academic programs, and an ongoing student aid program.
First and foremost, it’s the people—both the Mexican and the expat communities. The Mexicans here are gentle, kind and generous people who are happy to host us in their country.
I don’t know how many times we get asked the question, “What do you DO all day?” In no other expat community are there so many options.
The last time I checked, there were over 80 special groups one could get involved with, many that meet on the LCS grounds. These range from orchid growers, to scrabble and mahjong gamers, from service organizations to volunteer opportunities at nonprofit organizations, from writers clubs to Francophiles, and from line dancing to yoga. Our state-of-the-art Little Theatre offers you an opportunity to build sets, perform on stage or try your hand at directing. Then, there’s our 445-seat auditorium where quality shows are brought in from around the globe. We have two movie theaters and a large casino. Interested in opera or ballet? Guadalajara is an hour’s drive away and offers some of the best cultural opportunities in the world.
The expat population continues to get younger each year. There’s volleyball, two golf courses, tennis courts, kayaking and hiking for the adventurous. We can be outdoors almost every day and, with all the available activities, it’s very easy to meet people and make new friends.
Our restaurants feature cuisines from Japan, Thailand, China, Italian, United States, Germany, Greece, Europe, Argentina and even Mexico. We have two theaters, food stores which specialize in imports so you can always find that special bottle of capers, wonton wrappers or red licorice. Wines and liquors are imported from all over the world.
Beauty
Oh, did I forget to mention beauty? It doesn’t begin with a “C”. Let’s see, perhaps charisma? Here’s a view from my backyard during a frequent sunset. How much better can it get? That makes five and a half reasons to consider retirement in Ajijic or Chapala.
Before moving to Mexico, I worried unnecessarily about how I would continue with my education without knowing Spanish. At that time the Internet was immature and the Lakeside area had not yet burgeoned with the thousands of American and Canadian retirees who reside here today. However, the first writing classes offered on the Internet had not yet figured out how to charge for them, so I benefited from many free courses and free critique groups as I embarked on my new writing career.
Today, many years later, Lakeside residents are blessed with a proliferation of classes from getting and staying in physical, mental and emotional shape, to diverse arts and crafts lessons, dancing, cooking, writing, photography, computers, acting, singing, dancing, golf, tennis, bridge and scores more. Many are free, and others are reasonably priced.
The Lake Chapala Society in Ajijic is a non-profit organization which hosts many of these educational opportunities. The society was established nearly 60 years ago and is probably unique in the world. With more than 3,000 members (mostly expats) the 1-1/2 acre grounds are beautifully landscaped and the Society is run primarily by volunteers. Its purpose is to provide educational and social opportunities for both the expat and Mexican communities. To that end, there are facilities for both small and large classes, they have English and Spanish libraries, a coffee shop and a host of other facilities. LCS is open six days a week from 10 am to 2 p.m.
And today there are a world of online classes, sometimes referred to as distance learning or e-learning. You’d think they had us expats in mind when they developed these technologies. Recently I visited AARP’s site for another matter and discovered that their continuing education program was just the ticket for folks like me who wished to continue learning without the cost of earning college credits or certificates. We don’t have local English colleges, but we can take most any class online by auditing it—free!
These classes are provided by such prestigious educational institutions as MIT, Stanford, Princeton and UC Berkeley. Of course, students can take courses for credit, but they can also choose to audit the classes for free. There are literally thousands of courses available in most every subject. Most of us living in Mexico’s retirement communities no longer need additional degrees or certificates, we’re just interested in improving our knowledge.
At the AARP site, in the Life Reimagined section, you can click on “learn” in the navigation bar and then select courses either by subject or institution. I’ve just signed up for the “Science of Happiness” course offered by UC Berkeley. It begins in September.
While writing this post on e-learning, I discovered scores of other online options now available to us. Here are some of the most exciting ones:
iTunes U – Apple’s online university with over 100,000 educational video and audio files
Academic Earth – Thousands of video lectures from top scholars worldwide
YouTubeEDU – An educational channel with videos from top educational institutions
Research Channel – More than 3,500 videos produced by academic and leading research institutions
Videolectures.Net – Lecture videos by scientists and distinguished scholars
Learning Center – From Hewlett-Packard’s online skill classes
WonderHowTo – Instructional videos handpicked from more than 1,700 websites
HowCast – These include thousands of how-tovideo shorts
Videojug – A British site with thousands of how-to and ask-the-expert videos
TEDTalks – 18-minute videos from some of the top doers and thinkers in the world
Nobel Prize Winners – Video interviews and lectures by some of the smartest people in the world.
Forum National Network – Webcasts of on-demand and live lectures by many of the world’s foremost authors, scientists, policymakers, artists and community leaders.
Big Ideas – Produced by TVO, Canada’s largest educational broadcaster, this site presents videos on a variety of thought-provoking topics.
Today, the technology has made moving to Mexico a much easier decision than it was 15 years ago. We can continue with our education online and stay in touch with our loved ones via video on Skype, OoVoo, Tango and others. We can shop on-line. The only thing I can imagine that would be better is if we could master the “Beam me up, Scottie” technology so we could avoid airports.
Lake Chapala is Mexico’s largest lake, covering 425 square miles and extending 50 miles from east to west. It is located a mile high in central Mexico, only an hour’s drive from Guadalajara and surrounded by several fishing villages and a few larger towns. The majority of expats live on the north shore in Chapala, Ajijic, Jocotepec or one of the many fishing villages nestled among them. The lake is surrounded by what are often referred to as broccoli mountains which turn emerald green in the rainy season.
Ajijic is probably the most popular and most photographed of the villages. With cobblestone streets that are shared by autos and horses alike. Cows, donkeys and goats graze nearby while Mexican vendors hawk their wares. Lakeside is full of color, music and a myriad of entertainment possibilities.
So, why are so many expats choosing to spend their retirement years in Mexico…and specifically the Lake Chapala area?
Because of its rich Spanish and indigenous cultural heritage, charming colonial towns, spectacular beaches, lower cost of living (primarily in housing and health care) and proximity to Canada and the United States, the country of Mexico is the number one foreign destination for North American retirees. The Mexican economy is in good shape, and over the last few decades, the Mexican government has invested a great deal of money in improving the country’s infrastructure, including airports, highways, hospitals, communication, and hotels, making it even more desirable to retire here.
Aaran Shatterly, editor-in-chief of Inside Mexico, estimates that 1.5 million Americans currently live in Mexico and predicts that as many as 10 million North Americans will move to Mexico over the next 30 years.
Depending on whom you talk to, you will likely get a different list of the most popular expat areas, but mine includes (alphabetically):
Guadalajara, Jalisco
Lake Chapala, Jalisco
La Paz, Baja California
Mazatlán, Sinaloa
Mérida, Yucatán
Morelia, Michoacán
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco
San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas
San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato
A quick Google search will provide hundreds of hours of pleasurable reading on all these popular destinations.
Because Lake Chapala has the largest expat community in the world, guesstimated to be about 15,000 full and part-time expats, and because I have lived in the Lakeside area for 18 years, I am focusing on Lake Chapala’s north shore.
Lakeside is magical. In addition to its natural beauty, and weather, the culture is fabulous. Most visitors are swept up by its charms within the first three days of their arrival. When I moved here, it reminded me of living in California during the fifties. Mexican values are so different; it’s all about family—extended family first, religion next, friends follow and way down at the bottom of the list are things like possessions and positions. Think about how that compares to some of our values north of the border where family can be scattered worldwide and our first question upon meeting someone new is usually, “what do you do?”
In addition to values which place people above things, there is also a difference regarding time. Mexicans live in the “now.” That means treating each moment as the most important moment in your life—a great lesson for all of us to learn.
Many expats who stay first become acclimated and then addicted to this luxurious pace of life that provides enough time to enjoy the moment. Mexicans spend precious little time trying to control life. “It is what it is” — another great lesson.
As you live and learn the ways of Mexico and its people, you become habituated to the slower pace, the rhythms, and tempo of life in the villages. You revel in the sounds of horses clippity-clopping down the cobblestone streets, donkeys braying, children laughing, and vendors calling out their wares and services as they pass by, always greeting everyone with a big smile and a warm-hearted buenos días!
And then, for most of us, it becomes about community—the new friends we have made and the support systems we have forged both within the expat community as well as with the Mexicans. Be forewarned though, this precious little corner of the Western world, as perfect as it may be for those of us who choose to live here full-time, is not for everyone. In the next post, I will discuss the pros and cons of choosing Lake Chapala as your new home.