Tag Archives: retirement in Mexico

Five and a Half Reasons to Retire in Ajijic

Ajijic, Lake Chapala, , , , , , , , , ,

I first visited Ajijic in 1996 as part of International Living’s “Retire in Mexico” conference in Guadalajara. What was once a sleepy little fishing village located on Mexico’s largest lake, and discovered in the 1940s by only a handful of artists and writers (including D.H. Lawrence) is now reputedly the largest US/Canadian expat area in the world.

It's not a sleepy little fishing village anymore!
Ajijic is not a sleepy little fishing village anymore!

 

This is thanks, in part, to the feature articles in Time Magazine, AARP, The Wall Street Journal as well as newspaper features  and TV specials. As the baby boomers near retirement age, they are looking for a place where they can get more bang for their precious bucks and live in comfort.

Located In central Mexico, just 45 miles south of Guadalajara, Lake Chapala is the largest lake in Mexico. It is 5,000 feet high and measures 55 miles long by 15 miles wide. Surrounded by mountains, its natural light and near perfect weather attract people from around the world. Several villages dot the north and south shores of Lake Chapala and it’s estimated that the population on the north shore of the lake is 90,000 with 10,000-15,000 full and part-time expats.

Think of the Ajijic area as having Mexico’s best five “C’s”:  Climate, Cost of Living, Culture, Charm and Community: 

Climate

Outdoor activities are enjoyed here year round.
Outdoor activities are enjoyed here year round.

The temperature averages 75° F during the year. We don’t need central heating in the winter or air conditioners in the summer; fans handle the warmer weather in April and May.  Locals love the rainy season best. Typically we get thunder and lightning shows in the evening and it’s sunny during the day. Tradition has it that the rains will start six weeks after the rain birds (cicadas) begin their mating calls. Generally the season lasts from mid-June to late September. Then the dust is settled, the mountains  turn verdant green and the flowers, trees and shrubs adorn our gardens with vivid colors.

Cost of Living

Just as it does north of the border, the cost of living continues to creep up annually.  It’s as difficult to answer the cost of living question here as it is in Austin or San Francisco.  It depends on your lifestyle.  There are single American retirees who manage to live comfortably   with only their social security.

Probably they don’t have pets or cars, don’t eat out a lot and their travel is limited.  On the other hand, couples can live comfortably on $2,000 a month and, in fact, it’s hard to spend more than $5,000 per month as a couple regardless of your lifestyle.  It’s more expensive to live in Ajijic than in Chapala and you can live on significantly less in Jocotepec or on the south shore.

The weekly tianguis (outdoor markets) are a great place to shop for fresh fruits, vegetables, inexpensive clothing and gifts.
The weekly Tianguis (outdoor markets) is a great place to shop for fresh fruits, vegetables, inexpensive clothing and gifts.

We hire maids and gardeners for $3.00-$5.00 US/hour. Property taxes for a $300,000 home run about $125-150 US and most of us don’t opt for homeowners’ insurance because bricks and mortar don’t burn and we have no natural disasters here. Doctor visits range from $25 to $50 US and for those on a strict budget, IMMS (social medical insurance) runs about $350 US per year. Meals at the better restaurants average about $15-$25 and a glass of wine will set you back about $4.00.

 Culture

Many of us agree that Lakeside living reminds us of life in the 50’s. Children play outside and ride their bikes to school, feeling completely safe. Neighbors watch out for each other. Extended families celebrate holidays together with picnics or potlucks. The Mexican value system is family first, church second, job third and possessions last. When a worker doesn’t show up as scheduled, it’s likely that a cousin’s girlfriend needed a ride into Guadalajara. That’s more important than the job.

Mexican families wait for the next boat ride to Scorpion Island on a Sunday morning.
Mexican families wait for the next boat ride to Scorpion Island on a Sunday morning.

You’d think they would call and explain why they won’t be able to work, but another interesting facet of the culture is that the Mexicans live in the moment and, in this moment, they don’t want to give you bad news.  It’s the same when you ask directions. If they don’t know, they don’t want to disappoint you, so they’ll guess.

When Mexicans live in the moment they are happy, smiling and practically always greet us with a Buenos Dias or Buenos Tardes when they pass us by.

Charm

Brightly colored homes and businesses abound, many of them sporting whimsical murals.
Brightly colored homes and businesses abound, many of them sporting whimsical murals.

The villages here still sport cobblestone streets and provide a never-ending collage of contrasts. Watch one man cleaning his truck, while a few feet away, his amigo washes his horse.  Enjoy the young man delivering firewood on a donkey as he talks into his cell phone. Celebrate the rainy season as the mountains turn from gold to emerald-Oz green almost overnight.

Along the main highway one can often see herds of goats, cattle or horses grazing on the grass. It’s not uncommon to pull over so a family on horseback can cross the street.  Walk along the main street of Colon in Ajijic and enjoy the brightly painted art galleries, shops and businesses, many with colorful murals painted by talented local Mexican artists. Peek into open gates and be enchanted with the beautiful gardens and hacienda style homes.

Plan a night at the philharmonic and, the next day, listen to mariachis on the plaza with centuries-old folkloric dances. Enjoy the thermal baths in San Juan Cosala, visit one of the high-end spas for a day of relaxation or take a tour boat out to Scorpion Island.

Community

Like many others, I came here initially for the weather and the lower cost of living. But that’s not why so many of us have stayed.

The Lake Chapala Society (LCS) is situated on one and a half beautifully landscaped acres at #16 Calle 16 de Septiembre in Ajijic. Stroll the tropical grounds, enjoy the Koi ponds, peruse the community bulletin board, or stop for a cappuccino with friends.  The English library on the grounds has 30,000 titles, a reference library as well as video, DVD and talking book rentals. The LCS has 3400 members representing 31 countries. The LCS also assists the local Mexican community with classes in computer technology, English, art, remedial academic programs, and an ongoing student aid program.

One of the many annual fiestas held at the Lake Chapala Society
One of the many annual fiestas held at the Lake Chapala Society

First and foremost, it’s the people—both the Mexican and the expat communities. The Mexicans here are gentle, kind and generous people who are happy to host us in their country.

I don’t know how many times we get asked the question, “What do you DO all day?” In no other expat community are there so many options.

The last time I checked, there were over 80 special groups one could get involved with, many that meet on the LCS grounds. These range from orchid growers, to scrabble and mahjong gamers, from service organizations to volunteer opportunities at nonprofit organizations, from writers clubs to Francophiles, and from line dancing to yoga.  Our state-of-the-art Little Theatre offers you an opportunity to build sets, perform on stage or try your hand at directing. Then, there’s our 445-seat auditorium where quality shows are brought in from around the globe.  We have two movie theaters and a large casino. Interested in opera or ballet? Guadalajara is an hour’s drive away and offers some of the best cultural opportunities in the world.

The expat population continues to get younger each year. There’s volleyball, two golf courses, tennis courts, kayaking and hiking for the adventurous. We can be outdoors almost every day and, with all the available activities, it’s very easy to meet people and make new friends.

Our restaurants feature cuisines from Japan, Thailand, China, Italian, United States, Germany, Greece, Europe, Argentina and even Mexico. We have two theaters, food stores which specialize in imports so you can always find that special bottle of capers, wonton wrappers or red licorice.  Wines and liquors are imported from all over the world.

Beauty

View from Blue’s backyard during a spectacular sunset.
View from Blue’s backyard during a spectacular sunset.

Oh, did I forget to mention beauty? It doesn’t begin with a “C”.  Let’s see, perhaps charisma?  Here’s a view from my backyard during a frequent sunset. How much better can it get? That makes five and a half reasons to consider retirement in Ajijic or Chapala.

 

How do you pick a retirement spot?

Lake Chapala, , , , , , , ,

When I interviewed baby boomers for my recent book, one of the couples sat me down with a list of “must haves” they had used as they researched areas in which to retire. They had looked at Arizona which they found to be too hot; Idaho was too cold and Florida was too expensive at the time they had done their research. While in Arizona, they met an 86-year-old man who sat down with them and said, “Let me tell you what I think is important for retirement.”

During the interview, they handed me a sheet of paper which documented his ten guidelines:

1. A place where you can live below your budget
One of the unknowns has always been, “How long will we live?” Will our current assets and retirement monies support us until then?

In creating a budget, we also need to know if we will want to travel during our retirement. Do we feel it’s important to have a car, pets, a maid and gardener? Do we plan to take in cultural events, and eat out frequently? What level of insurance and medical care do we want?

During my 18 years in Ajijic, I’ve written many articles on the cost of living and although there’s no one answer for everyone, I’ve spoken with singles who live very modestly on as little as $900 US per month and more extravagantly on $2500 a month. Couples have reported monthly budgets from $1200 to $4500. Many who live on Social Security alone find they can live here with dignity and self-respect. That is something most retirees cannot attain north of the border.

2.  A place within 50 miles of an international airport
This is especially important if you plan on travelling frequently or have hopes that your family and friends will visit regularly. Here at Lake Chapala, the international airport is only 30 minutes away. It’s a small airport, considering that Guadalajara has over seven million people. It’s easy to get to, easy to park in and easy to navigate the airport. Taxis to the airport cost approximately $35 US.

Lake Chapala Fiesta
Lake Chapala Society Fiesta

3. A community with over 10,000 retirees so you can find at least seven people who share your interests.
At Lakeside, the largest U.S. and Canadian expat community in North America, there are over 100 organized groups that you can get involved with from theater to music to orchid growing to poker. When I arrived, there was no scrabble group, so I simply posted a notice on the Lake Chapala Society bulletin board and now there are groups at different levels which meet three times a week. The types of activities we have range from educational to cultural to social to volunteer work. Not only is there no reason to be bored here, but it’s advisable to refrain from overbooking your time when you first get here.

4. A community over 10 years old
This is important because, after ten years, the community should be well established so that most problems have been worked out. The Little Theatre in Ajijic is 50 years old and the Lake Chapala Society is nearly 60 years old. A number of non-profit organizations have been established here for decades.

5. A place rich in cultural diversity and history
Ajijic was founded by the Spaniards in 1531 and is one of the oldest villages in western Mexico. Foreigners discovered it in the 1930s and today the north shore of Lake Chapala is home to approximately 15,000 full and part-time Americans, Canadians and Europeans in addition to the approsximately 70,000 Mexicans. There’s a Canadian club, German speaking club, Irish club and a group from New England which meets monthly.

6. A place with weather you can live with
As discussed in the Q&A section on this site, the Lake Chapala region is considered the second best climate in the world with a year-round average temperature of 69°F (20.5°C)  – not too hot and not too cold. Because of this, the area attracts thousands of snowbirds from the cold country in the winter and sunbirds from the hotter regions in the summertime.

Fresh produce at the Ajijic tianguis
Fresh produce at the Ajijic tianguis

7. Having access to fresh produce
Located close to Sinaloa, Mexico’s breadbasket, the fruits and vegetables are all freshly picked and brought to many of the local tianguis (outdoor markets).

The huge abastos in Guadalajara is a central wholesale distribution center for produce, meats and fish. In addition, Ajijic has an incredible organic market open each Tuesday.

8. Having access to the best medical care
Also discussed in the Q&A section, Chapala and Ajijic are blessed with a Red Cross clinic, several medical clinics with ambulances and the ability to stabilize patients in order to get them to the appropriate hospital in Guadalajara. Some of Guadalajara’s hospitals compare favorably to the best in the U.S. and Canada. Most specialist doctor’s speak English and, in fact, many U.S. doctors were trained at the Universidad Autónoma de Guadalajara.

9. A place which provides good local transportation
Many expats choose not to own a car. This is an easy choice since the public transportation (primarily busses and taxis) are convenient, frequent and inexpensive. For longer trips, Mexico has several bus lines which are considered luxurious and certainly one-up the Greyhound lines in the United States. Senior Mexicans and expats can get 50% discounts on travel within Mexico.

Great shot of an Ajijic water spout
Great shot of an Ajijic water spout

10. An area with a low probability of catastrophic events
The only “catastrophic” event I’ve witnessed in 18 years was a water spout in 2010 that damaged many homes and roads in San Juan Cosala. Being inland, we are immune to hurricanes, although we do sometimes get the tail end of wind and rain resulting from hurricanes on both coasts. We’ve had a few minor earthquakes with insignificant damage. Fires are rare because the buildings are constructed of brick and cement. Most homeowners do not even carry homeowner’s insurance.

After I discussed these 10 points with the couple I interviewed, it became very apparent that their choice of Ajijic to retire met with all the older gentlemen’s very wise advice. It’s a good checklist to keep in your pocket as you research retirement places, be they in Mexico, overseas or north of the border.

Baby Boomers:
Reinvent Your Retirement in Mexico

Books, Lake Chapala, , , , , ,

baby_boomersFor all the time we spend craving leisure time, discussing it, dreaming about it and planning for it, few among us use it well. Now, cozy up in a comfortable chair with this book and share a margarita with couples who have found a way to fill their retirement years with passion, purpose, and potential. Listen as singles discuss how they live comfortably in Mexico on just their Social Security. Visit with retirees who have discovered the joy of making a difference in their community. You’ll laugh, cheer and cry with these gutsy gringos as they transition from their structured working lives to rewarding retirements in Mexico. They tell it like it is—the rewards and the frustrations. The boomers talk about moving to Lakeside, the real costs of living here, security, crime, health care options, community, what they miss from back home, and their answers to that oft-asked question from friends and loved ones: “But what do you do all day?” This book is unlike any book you’ve read about moving to or living in Mexico. It doesn’t focus on the the wheres, the whats and the hows. Instead, you’re invited to appreciate—up close and personally—the experience of retiring on Lake Chapala’s beautiful north shore.

Midlife Mavericks:
Women Reinventing Their Lives in Mexico

Books, Lake Chapala, , , , , , , , , ,

midlife_mavericksMidlife Mavericks chronicles a new trend–unmarried American and Canadian women building better lives for themselves in Mexico’s beautiful Lakeside villages.

The stories of the 17 women included in this book cover a wide range of ages, financial situations and personal goals. Although not every woman will choose to reinvent her life by moving to Mexico, the “Indiana Joans” within these pages will motivate readers to reevaluate their situations and perhaps take some risks to try something new to improve their lives.

For anyone considering a move to Mexico, the openness with which these women speak–both of their fears and hopes, as well as their joys and disappointments — paint an accurate picture of what it is like to uproot a life and rebuild another one south of the border.

A cover story in AARP,  articles in Newsweek and Time and television spots on CBS have featured this book as they investigate why so many Americans and Canadians are heading south to Mexico. Many travel books are written about the Lakeside area of Mexico, but this book is the only one to document the “experience” of moving to and living in Mexico.  Anyone dissatisfied with their lives, or those who have considered packing up and heading south of the border,  won’t want to miss this. Even the men have resonated with the stories in this book.